Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
